Ford 7.3L Injectors Stage 1 160cc Upgrade
Stock Nozzle SINGLE Shot AA Performance Injectors - Requires Chip
*Requires Hydra Chip-(Includes 6 custom GH programs to match your Stage 1 Injectors)
Ford 7.3L Powerstroke 1999-2003 Superduty
160cc/Stock Nozzles - These are entry level performance injectors. These injectors have the capability of producing 350 RWHP with the proper tuning and supporting modifications. These are a great improvement over the stock injectors for 1999-2003 model years but do require a CONVERSION Programmed Chip to run properly in a 1999-2003 Ford Superduty.
*These Single Shot Conversion/Performance Injectors are a good option for the experienced Diesel Performance Enthusiast.
Ships in 1-2 Business Days
NOTE: The Performance Conversion AA Injectors require a Chip with CONVERSION Programming to run these injectors. Hydra Chips with Green LED Display are Pre-Tuned for these injectors are programmed by GEARHEAD with these 6 Tunes:
1 - HEAVY TOW (Lower HP so Most comparable to Stock)
2 - HI-IDLE
3 - STEALTH (quiets the idle, ex. at drive-thru it is quieter)
4 - LIGHT TOW/ECONOMY
5 - STREET
6 - ALL OUT (Race)
7.3L Ford Powerstroke Diesel Fuel Injectors-
Unlimited Diesel factory certifications meet or exceed industry standards for fuel flow, and come with a Limited Lifetime Warranty.
Unlimited Diesel Performance offers a Limited Lifetime Warranty on Remanufactured 7.3L Power Stroke Fuel Injectors
Limited Lifetime Warranty requires an oil change at time of injector installation. Warranty Card must be filled out entirely (includes serial number of injectors and part number of new oil filter) and returned within thirty (30) days with injector cores and proof of purchase to qualify. This warranty is only in effect for the original purchaser and original vehicle listed on registration. No transfers of ownership or vehicles allowed!
We recommend using the Rev-X Performance Oil Additive and Rev-X Distance+ Fuel Additive for the protection and enhancement of your truck. This is a Great product with proven results!
CORE RETURN / Ret, in 4 Weeks or Core Deposit is Void / SHIPPING NOTE: $30.00 UPS Ground Shipping + $5.00 Core Return Shipping Label, located in blister pack on outside the box, to be used for return of your used cores. Heavy Duty double-box and packaging can be used for return of injector cores. Flat Ship Rate and Return Label applies only to Lower 48 States, those outside the Lower 48 States will be contacted regarding addtional shipping costs before injectors ship. Return Label and Return Costs Not Included for locations outside the Lower 48 States.
ADDITIONAL PART OPTIONS ORDERED WILL INCUR ADDITIONAL SHIPPING COSTS
Injectors which have run alternative fuels (veggie oil, etc.), been burned in a fire, or disassembled, will not be accepted as cores. See Core Info Below for other conditons.
ATTENTION ALL ALASKA, HAWAII AND NON-US CUSTOMERS
*** MUST PAY UPFRONT CORE CHARGE OF $600.00 BEFORE INJECTORS WILL BE SHIPPED. CORE CHARGE WILL BE REFUNDED AFTER INJECTOR CORES HAVE BEEN RECEIVED AND INSPECTED. CLICK HERE TO MAKE PAYMENT.
*** WILL BE CHARGED $25 UPFRONT FOR SHIPPING AND WILL BE CONTACTED REGARDING ADDITIONAL SHIPPING REQUIRED.
*** ANY CUSTOMS/BROKERAGE OR OTHER FEES ARE THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE PURCHASER AND ARE NOT INCLUDED IN INJECTOR PURCHASE PRICE OR SHIPPING OR CORE RETURN SHIPPING PRICES OR PAYMENTS.
*** PURCHASER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR CORE RETURN SHIPPING AND ALL ASSOCIATED CORE RETURN FEES OR CHARGES.
INJECTOR CORE RETURN POLICY
Cores are the old injectors out of your truck. All injector cores are due back by due date is given with your Return Label and paperwork. If cores are not returned by the due date you recieve with your injectors, and no reasonable attempt to return cores has been made, you will be billed a Core Non-Return Core Charge of $600.00 (*see below)
The $25 Shipping includes shipping the injectors to you, plus you will receive a prepaid Return Label to use to ship cores back. Return Label found in blister pack on outside of injector box.
INJECTOR CORES MUST BE A SET, LIKE FOR LIKE, AND MUST BE THE SAME INJECTORS THAT CAME OUT OF THE TRUCK THAT THE PURCHASED INJECTORS ARE FOR!
*** Injectors that will NOT be suitable as cores:
-Injectors returned to us which are out of a salvage yard,
-Injectors which have been used for or were exposed to veggie oil,
-Injectors which have been burned, or
-Injectors which have been externally damaged.
-Injector which has previously been disassembled.
-Injectors that are mis-matched; cores must ALL be same injector code.
YOU WILL BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE REPLACEMENT OF ANY SEVERELY DAMAGED OR NON REPAIRABLE CORES
Core Replacement Fee-$75 per non rebuildable core.
Damaged Solenoid - $50 each
Unlimited Diesel Performance requires an oil change be performed, and a new fuel filter installed with all injector installations. Please be sure your tank, fuel lines and rails are CLEAN befor installation. Contamination can cause a newset of injectors to instantly malfunction.
You must return your injector cores to the SHOP address provided with your injectors. If you ship to the office you will be charged cost of Reshipping.
*Ford 7.3L Injector Core Return Policy
1- Cores must be returned by included Due Date or arrangements made for return of cores. All Manufacturer’s core definitions, requirements and exclusions apply.
2- If cores are not returned and no arrangements or contact have been made with Black Cloud Diesel you will be invoiced for $600.00 to replace the cores that have not been returned. That is the policy of our supplier and it is non-negotiable.
3- If you fail to respond to the invoice within two weeks, your account will be turned over to collections. An additional Late Fee of $350 will be added to your invoice for a total of $950.00 in charges for non-return of cores.
4- At this point, your cores will no longer be accepted for return. Once your account has been assigned to our attorney for collection, all business transactions as well as all communication will be handled strictly through that agency.
5- Non-Return of injector cores will VOID any Warranty.
6- In Summary; if you fail to return your cores, and fail to contact us, and fail to return our calls, and fail to return our e-mails, your account will then be handled by our attorney for collection of your $600 core amount PLUS $350 Late Fee applied = $950 and, your Warranty will be VOIDED.
**7.3L Injector Core Price of $600 per set/$75 per injector effective as of 10-12-2015.
We appreciate you staying in contact with us and are happy to work with you if you need to make arrangements to accommodate delays. If you stay in contact with us and we know what’s truthfully going on, there shouldn’t be a problem working out your core return.
- Remove the valve cover.Disconnect the fuel injector electrical connector.
- The A/C compressor and alternator must be removed prior to removing the valve covers.
- Remove the internal oil drain plugs in the cylinder head to drain the cylinder head.
- Remove the retaining screw and oil deflector (The shoulder bolt on the inboard side of the fuel injector does not require removal.)
- Remove the outboard fuel injector retaining bolt.
- For removing No. 7 injector only:Carefully remove the fuel injector (make sure you remove the rear-most injector first to ensure that any fuel in the head will be isolated into one cylinder).
- 94 to early 95 F-series with A/C—remove the outer half of the evaporator plenum.
- 95-97—the A/C vacuum reservoir can be removed instead.
- 99-up only need the inter-cooling piping removed
- Check owner’s repair manual for any uncertainties
- Remove any fuel or oil that may have entered the cylinders by bumping the engine over by hand or with a remote starter to prevent a hydraulic lock of the engine.
- Make sure all O-rings and copper washer come out with the injector.
- Make sure injector sleeve and bore are clean and clear of all debris.
- Make sure a good seating surface is provided for the fuel injector.
- Lubricate the fuel injector and O-rings with clean engine oil.
- Install the fuel injector, with three new O-rings, backup ring, and a new injector copper washer (be careful not to let the copper washer shift or fall from the injector while installing).
- For No. 7 injector, install the part that was removed pending on you year model vehicle (see step 6).
- Install the oil deflector and bolt and tighten to (120 in lb).
- Install the outboard injector retaining bolt and tighten to same as in step 14.
- Install the oil rail drain plugs and tighten to (53 in lb).
- Connect the fuel injector electrical connector.
- Install the valve cover.
- Enjoy your new injectors!!!!
Tips to help remove and install Power Stroke injectors.
After removing the valve covers and the valve cover gaskets, but before removing any injectors, drain the oil rails by removing the drain plugs inside the valve cover. On 94-97 trucks they’re just under where the electrical connectors are on the gasket. These plugs are very tight; give them a sharp blow with a hammer and punch to help break them loose, then use an 1/8" Allen wrench. The oil will drain out into the valve train area and from there into the crankcase. Don’t drop the plugs down the push rod holes!
Also remove one of the plugs on top of each oil rail, (beside where the lines from the High Pressure Oil Pump enter) for a vent to allow air to enter so the oil can drain. The plugs are 5/8”.
Inspect the plug O-rings and replace if necessary. If the plugs under the covers leak, it will cause a substantial loss of performance.
When removing the injectors, oil and fuel from the passages in the cylinder head drains down through the injector bore into the cylinders. If not removed, this can hydro-lock the engine when cranking.
There is a ~40cc dish in the center of each piston. Fluid accumulates in it, as well as in the corner on the outside of the piston between the piston top and the cylinder wall, due to the 45* slope of the cylinder bank. Quantities of fluid less than 1 Tablespoon (14cc) are not cause for concern.
Remove the lower (closest to exhaust manifold) bolt on the injector hold-down clamps with an 8mm ¼” drive deep well socket and slide the clamp up and out from under the upper bolt. It is not necessary to remove the upper bolt.
Loosen the bolt that holds the oil deflector spout on the clamp 2-3 turns (5mm Allen), otherwise the deflector can hit the solenoid and either chip the solenoid or break the deflector.
Use a 12-18" long pry bar and placing the tip under the injector clamp and resting the bar on the cylinder head, gently pry the injectors out of their bores. Be sure that the bar is under the clamp, and not prying on the solenoid. Make certain you are prying them straight out in relation to the bore, not at an angle, which will wedge them against the bore.
The special Ford tools for injector removal and installation are not necessary.
Remove the rear-most injector from each side first; because the engine slopes down to the rear, this will allow the majority of the fuel and oil to drain into that cylinder. If the piston happens to be at top dead center and the exhaust valve is open slightly, the fluid may drain out the valve into the exhaust manifold, so if after starting the engine you have fluid leaking out the exhaust, this is probably what happened.
We strongly advise against trying to remove the fluids by cranking the engine with the starter with injectors or glow plugs removed. The fluid will come out under extreme pressure and at very high velocity, and there is also a risk of damaging the engine. It is safe to turn the engine over by turning the crankshaft with breaker bar and a 24mm socket; doing this with the injectors installed but the glow plugs removed will pump out some of the fluid, but not that which is in the piston dish.
A Mighty-Vac hand pump, available at auto parts stores for $25-30, is the best way to remove the fluid from the cylinders, but the hose supplied with the pump is too large to fit through the injector hole into the cylinder; push a piece of ¼” OD tubing into the supplied tube. Very large syringes are available from Farm or Vetrinary supply stores for under $5. Used with 12" of 1/4" OD poly tubing on the tip they work just fine. Lightly oil inside of the syringe and the rubber plunger before using.
After removing each injector, inspect the nozzle tip to verify that the copper gasket (washer) came out with the injector, and is not left inside the injector bore. If the portion of the injector between the tip and first O-ring is black with soot/carbon, this means that either the injector was not bolted down tightly, or the copper washer was not installed. If this has happened, give that bore careful inspection to be sure that the new washer will seal in the bottom of the cup. If the injector is a reddish brown there is no cause for concern; that’s from small amounts of fuel leaking past the lower O-ring and filling the void between the O-ring and the washer.
Wipe the injector bores clean with a clean, lint-free cloth and inspect the copper sleeves in the bottom of the bores for signs of damage such as scratches or pitting. Carbon bits from the nozzle that remain in the bore can prevent the new injectors from sealing properly, and can enter the injector and plug the nozzle. Do not be concerned about bits of carbon falling inside the cylinder.
If you receive your injectors with O-rings on them, they are brand new ones. If you are installing the O-rings yourself, follow the directions included with them.
Your injectors come numbered 1-8; please install them in their corresponding cylinder: driver's side is even-numbered, starting from the front to the rear, 2,4,6,8 and passenger's side is odd, 1,3,5,7. All the injectors are identical, but we keep track of the injector serial number during our work, and number them for ease of tracking. If your injectors are split shot injectors for 1999-2003 7.3L Power Strokes and one of them is an “AE” or “LL” type injector with a blue colored electrical connector on the solenoid, it must be installed in cylinder #8.
We will appreciate it if you number your old injectors with their cylinder number.
Lightly coat the injector O-rings with engine oil before installation, and make sure everything is free from all grit or dirt. Firmly push the injector down into its bore with the palm of your hand, giving it gentle blows with a soft hammer if necessary. Listen for a ringing sound as the injector bottoms out in the bore of the head. The single biggest mistake while installing injectors is not having the injector fully seated, and failing to fully tighten the hold-down bolts. You cannot damage the injector by over-tightening the bolts, but you can seriously damage both the injector and the engine if the injector is not securely bolted down because raw fuel will leak into the cylinder.
Slide the clamp under the upper bolt head so the bolt head engages in the slot in the clamp, then install and tighten the lower bolt to 120 INCH pounds. Re-torque all the hold down bolts before installing the valve cover!
Install all the injectors in the heads and then fill the oil rails in the heads with new oil. If you need to replace the O-rings on the plugs, the size is 3/32" thick, 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD. Use the OEM replacements if possible, or Viton ones for hydraulic applications.
Before installing the valve covers, crank the engine continuosly for 30-40 seconds, with the injector wires disconnected so the injectors will not fire, to get oil and fuel circulating and pressurizing. Do this twice, waiting a few minutes between cycles to let the starter cool. This cycle of cranking and resting gives time for air in the injectors to bleed, and insures that there will be proper lubrication to the internal injector components. After the two primary cranking cycles, connect the wiring harness and crank the engine continously until it starts. If you try to start it in the normal manner of cranking for 5 seconds or so at a time, it will not start! It is normal for the engine to run roughly when first started and to have an abnormally long cranking time until all the air is purged from the oil system. It takes a minimum of 15 miles of driving to purge the system, and occasionally up to 50 miles.
If the engine is started while there is still air inside the nozzle, there may not be sufficient fuel to cushion the nozzle needle and it can crack the nozzle tips. Air inside the fuel cavity of the plunger and barrel can cause scoring or galling. Injectors returned for warranty work with scored plunger and barrels are not covered!
Note that cranking the engine with the wiring harness disconnected will cause the PCM to store a trouble code, usually 1271-1278 “Injector Circuit High to Low Side Open”, code 1211 “ICP Pressure High/Low During Cranking” and possibly code 034x “CPS not detected” or something similar.
If you have problems during installation do not hesitate to call us at 1-866-595-8724. If you specifically state that you are having problems and need injector installation assistance, you will get it immediately.
Injector Hold-Down Bolts: 120 in/lbs
Fuel Rail End Plugs: 97 in/lb
Glow Plugs: 14 ft/lb
Oil Rail Plugs (side): 53 in/lb
Valve Cover Bolts: 97 in/lb